Baking Experts Tell Us The Biggest Mistakes People Make When Baking Cheesecake
Updated: Oct 1
FEATURED IN THE TAKEOUT
By Chloë James • November 11, 2024
The Takeout turned to Melanie Underwood—culinary educator and author of Making Artisan Cheesecake—along with other baking experts for a deep dive into the mistakes that can keep a cheesecake from being smooth, creamy and properly set.
Start with the cream cheese
Melanie recommends choosing full-fat cream cheese and paying attention to the ingredient list, particularly when texture matters.
“Cream cheese with gums can have a slightly pasty texture, which I find less appealing.”
Choose the pan for the method
When baking in a water bath, Melanie prefers a solid cake-style cheesecake pan because it removes the risk of water leaking through a springform seam. If a springform pan is used, she recommends placing the pan inside an oven roasting bag and bringing the bag up the sides to keep water out. She also recommends removable-bottom cheesecake pans such as Fat Daddio’s.
Why she uses a water bath
“I love a water bath because I prefer a smooth and creamy cheesecake.”
“It helps maintain that texture during baking.”
The gentler, humid baking environment helps the cheesecake bake more evenly and supports the creamy texture Melanie is looking for.
Don’t wait for the center to look fully set
“It should still look slightly jiggly in the center—about the size of a quarter—when you take it out of the oven.”
“The cheesecake will continue to cook and set as it cools.”
That visual cue matters more than waiting for the entire cake to appear firm. Overbaking is one of the fastest ways to lose the creamy texture that makes cheesecake so good.
Cooling is part of the bake
Melanie’s method is intentionally gradual: let the cheesecake begin cooling in the turned-off oven, then bring it to room temperature before refrigerating it. Moving it through those temperature changes too quickly can create moisture problems.
“Rushing this process may cause condensation.”
And then: patience
Melanie recommends chilling cheesecake for at least four hours before serving. The point is not simply that cold cheesecake tastes better—the chilling time gives the filling time to finish setting and develop the texture you worked for.
The bigger cheesecake lesson
Ingredient choice affects texture before the cheesecake ever reaches the oven.
The right pan depends on whether you are using a water bath.
A gentle bake protects a smooth, creamy filling.
A slight jiggle in the center is a better cue than a fully firm cake.
Cooling and chilling are part of the technique, not an afterthought.
For Melanie, cheesecake is less mysterious when you understand what each stage is doing. That approach—teaching the why behind the technique—is the same way she has taught baking and cooking throughout her career.
THE TAKEOUT • BAKING • Cheesecake technique and common mistakes
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